Aboriginal Cultural Activities

The complete kayak can be accomplished in approximately 28 hours, including the sewing of the sealskin.

The first kayak, 39 inches long, was made by an elder, Lucassie Ohaytook. Depending of available wood, we try to follow his length and pattern.

Basswood is the wood of choice, since it is relatively free of knots and is very soft and has good flexibility. But, you might be forced to cut up 2 x 4's. The width is approximately 3/8", by 1" high. Use antikickback on table saw. (Safety guard removed for photo)

Each slab of wood for the gunwales must be relatively evenly matched. Since the gunwales will have to bend, it is critical that no imperfections are found in the wood, especially knots.

An elder provided the first kayak that we used to make patterns. It might be advantageous to get advice about the front and back of the kayak. Some clues can be obtained from images in this project. The length is 39".

Bandsaw the profile. A jigsaw can be used in place of a bandsaw. Instruct the students to keep fingers away from the blade. Have a push stick close to the saw for assisting travel of the gunwales.

Use 4-6 small finishing nails to put the 2 gunwales together. The gunwales must be a perfect match.

Use a small block plane to make the profile exactly the same.

The block plane is excellent for outer curves, but useless for inner curves. Use a wood file to make the profiles match.

Gunwales have right and left sides. It is critical to write the "outside" on each gunwale. The students are reminded not to touch the outside of the gunwales when using the block plane. Also, best to have the student's name on outside.

Wood is going to be removed from the inside of the gunwales. It will taper from about 1/4" of wood on the top to the existing bottom. By drawing a dark line at the top, the student will remove wood to eliminate the black line and taper it to the bottom. The bottom should not be planed.

Make sure the gunwales are labeled 'outside and inside'. Shave the inside (red in the photograph), but leave the black part untouched. Note that this black outline is not the black line in the previous photograph.

The gunwales must be planed. The outside of the gunwales is not touched. This gunwale has been cut to assist viewing.

Drill holes for the cockpit support and insert it. Pull the ends of the gunwales together and tie them securely. Notching the gunwales allows for easier lashing.

Drill holes in the sides of the gunwales and insert the cross pieces. Drill holes in the cross pieces and the gunwales and sew them in place, proceeding along the inside of the gunwales.

Cut deck stringers and sew them into the deck beams. This stabilizes the deck. The stringers run from the front of the cockpit to the front of the kayak and from the back of the cockpit to the back of the kayak.

Taper the end of the rib and insert into gunwale hole. Determine how far the rib will extend down and mark it.

The width of the rib is critical. Make sure that the bottom width stays inside the width of the gunwales. The biggest problem with ribs is the fact that they may end up sticking outside the sides of the kayak. Mark the locations where the ribs will bend. KEEP THESE MARKS INSIDE THE WIDTH OF THE GUNWALES.

In the past, elders would bite on the corners of the ribs to ease bending. It is easier to nick the bend with a band saw or file and/or beat it with a hammer. Since we only work with softwood, it often breaks.

It helps if the notched rib is soaked in boiling water for a few minutes. This assists in bending the corners. Bend gently.

Insert ribs into holes in gunwales. A drop of glue assists in keeping the ribs in place until the keel is established.

A curved jig can be made to hold the side keel pieces allowing them to be routed out on the inner surface. The keel along both sides extends up the sides of the kayak vertically, keeping the rib bends from extending out the sides of the kayak. Curving the side keel pieces is always a struggle since the front must be shaved to cause it to bend close to the kayak frame.

Part of the keel is routed out to allow the ribs to rest against the side of the keel.

Sew in the side keels and the centre stringer.

It is critical when bending wood to keep the ends firmly in place. Metal strapping has metal stops installed which will hold onto hardwood, preventing the circumference of a bend from splitting apart. The stops are a fixed distance apart to hold wood for the cockpit.

The hardwood must fit exactly between the two stops. A jig must be made to form the wood after it is heated on the hot pipe.

A special pipe is created to allow a propane tank to heat the inside of the pipe. Dip the wood in water and then rub it back and forth over the hot pipe. Within a minute or two the lignin of the wood gives way (melts) and the wood bends. It must quickly be moved to the forming jig and formed around it.

Remove the wood bender from the hot pipe and quickly pull it around a jig which is sized for the cockpit. Clamp the handles in place for a brief time.

Drill holes in the cockpit and sew in a back support.

It takes an average student about 25 hours to reach this point. It takes about 3 hours to apply a sealskin covering.